To shave or not to shave. That’s the choice men face every day.
Do I want to be clean-shaven every morning? Do I skip a day or two and look a little scruffy? Do I stop shaving, let my beard grow, then spend that shaving time trimming?
During my adult life, I’ve answered “yes” to all of those questions.
In the early 1970s, I grew a mustache. I kept it until the mid-’80s when we sold our second house while building a new place. I remained clean-shaven until late last year, when I decided to let my beard grow for the first time. It was a good change for me during my first year in retirement, and the vast majority of people who saw it liked it.
Last week, I decided to end the experiment for now. Maybe I’ll reconsider in the fall.
That experience led me to do some thinking and research about beards.
The growth of shaving
Beards seem to have become popular in recent years. That’s a change from most of the 20th Century, when most men were clean-shaven. And that was a change from the 19th Century, when beards were very popular.
Men have been shaving for thousands of years (think clam shells and shark teeth), but obviously shaving was more difficult before the development of sharp knives, which led to the development of the razor, according to howstuffworks.com:
“Even with these developments, however, men preferred beards. This may be because shaving with a straight razor is a somewhat dangerous activity better left to a professional. Unless you live in a city and are wealthy, being able to find and afford a shaving professional is difficult. And so, all the way up to the 20th Century, beards were fashionable and most men wore them.
“But during World War I in the United States, that all changed. And there were two reasons for that change:
“Gillette had released the ‘safety razor’ in 1901, and it was steadily gaining popularity because of a massive ad campaign. The safety razor made it possible and inexpensive for men to shave daily.
“Soldiers in the United States army were required to shave.”
According to the website, because of chemical agents used during World War I, soldiers needed to use gas masks. For those to fit properly, soldiers needed to be clean-shaven:
“The army bought millions of Gillette razors and blades to make shaving possible.
“When all of the soldiers returned from WWI with their clean-shaven faces, they were heroes. They appeared in their home towns, and they also appeared in newsreels in the new movie theaters that had sprung up everywhere. Combined with ad campaigns from companies like Gillette, it became the fashion to be clean shaven. Between 1920 and 1960, beards were definitely unfashionable.”
Famous beards
Some famous men were known for their beards, including Confucius, Leonardo da Vinci, Karl Marx, Charles Darwin, Walt Whitman and Abraham Lincoln.
Lincoln, who served from 1861-1865, was the first bearded president of the United States. Only four other presidents have had beards: Ulysses S. Grant (1869-1877), Rutherford B. Hayes (1877-1881), James A. Garfield (1881) and Benjamin Harrison (1889-1893).
Seven others had some type of facial hair: John Quincy Adams (1825-1829), long sideburns; Martin Van Buren (1837-1841), long sideburns; Zachary Taylor (1849-1850), sideburns; Chester A. Arthur (1881-1885), mustache and long sideburns; Grover Cleveland (1885-1889, 1893-1897), mustache; Theodore Roosevelt (1901-1909), mustache; and William Howard Taft (1909-1913), mustache. Taft was the last president to have facial hair.
There is an interesting story about Lincoln’s beard, reported by many sources, including The Atlantic:
“In what has to go down as one of the all-time great moments of political image consulting, an 11-year old girl suggested to a fresh-faced Abe Lincoln that he grow a beard. And then he did. The website Letters of Note even has copies of the girl's letter and Lincoln's response. Beyond being the cutest historical footnote of all time, Ms. Grace Bedell, had some solid reasoning behind her request.”
Here is the lettersofnote.com transcript of that letter from Grace, who lived in Westfield, N.Y.:
“Hon A B Lincoln
“Dear Sir
“My father has just home from the fair and brought home your picture and Mr. Hamlin’s. I am a little girl only 11 years old, but want you should be President of the United States very much so I hope you wont think me very bold to write to such a great man as you are. Have you any little girls about as large as I am if so give them my love and tell her to write to me if you cannot answer this letter. I have got 4 brothers and part of them will vote for you any way and if you let your whiskers grow I will try and get the rest of them to vote for you you would look a great deal better for your face is so thin. All the ladies like whiskers and they would tease their husbands to vote for you and then you would be President. My father is going to vote for you and if I was a man I would vote for you to but I will try to get every one to vote for you that I can I think that rail fence around your picture makes it look very pretty I have got a little baby sister she is nine weeks old and is just as cunning as can be. When you direct your letter direct to Grace Bedell Westfield Chautauqua County New York.
“I must not write any more answer this letter right off Good bye
“Grace Bedell”
Here is the transcript of Lincoln’s response:
“Springfield, Ill. Oct 19, 1860
“Miss Grace Bedell
“My dear little Miss
“Your very agreeable letter of the 15th is received—
“I regret the necessity of saying I have no daughters— I have three sons— one seventeen, one nine, and one seven years of age— They, with their mother, constitute my whole family—
“As to the whiskers, having never worn any, do you not think people would call it a piece of silly affectation if I were to begin it now?
“Your very sincere well wisher
“A. Lincoln”
Whether or not Grace’s suggestion made a difference, Lincoln was elected as our 16th, and arguably most famous, president, and the rest is history.
Other men have been defined by their beards, such as Blackbeard the pirate and James “Grizzly” Adams. And who could imagine Santa Claus clean-shaven?
Beard varieties
Beards are as different as hairstyles, and it’s good that not all are alike. Some beards are neatly trimmed, others are wild. Some are short, others extremely long. Some are thick, others are scraggly. Beards look natural on some men. On others, not so much.
Some young men want to grow a beard before their beard is ready to grow. I guess it’s an attempt to make them look older.
There are many styles of beards, according to Gillette, the grooming products company. It lists circle beard, royale beard, goatee, petite goatee, Van Dyke, short boxed, Balbo, anchor, Chevron, 3-day stubble, horseshoe mustache, original stache, mutton chops beard, gunslinger bear and mustache, chin strap and chin strap style beard.
The names are fascinating, as are those of mustaches, including Fu Manchu and handlebar.
The cost of shaving
We spend a lot of time and money on shaving and trimming.
If a man spends three minutes every day shaving for 65 years, he will have spent about 50 days of his life shaving.
It’s difficult to point to how much each of us spends on shaving products because we have different approaches.
There also is variety in how we care for our facial hair. Some men use blades; others prefer electric razors.
Years ago, shaving required some type of soapy lather and a straight razor. I remember my grandfather using a brush to apply the soap from his mug to his mug. Now many men use gels that turn to lather to avoid nicks and cuts and to give a closer shave and a smoother face. And don’t forget the pre- and post-skin treatments that some men use.
And new products are being developed.
According to an article by CNBC in 2018, Harry’s shaving club (there’s a great company name) has cut into the men’s shaving market that has been dominated by Gillette and Schick:
“Harry’s has captured about 2 percent of the $2.8 billion men’s shaving industry since its launch in 2013, according to Euromonitor market research firm. Its main shaving club rival, Dollar Shave Club, has about 8 percent.
“Gillette controlled about 70 percent of the U.S. market a decade ago. Last year, its market share dropped to below 50 percent, according to Euromonitor. The company, owned by P&G, was forced to slash its razor prices by an average of 12 percent last year.
“No. 2 razor maker Schick has also been squeezed. Parent company Edgewell Personal Care reported a 3.6 percent drop in net sales from its North America shave business in its most recent earnings report.”
And through all of this information I haven’t even addressed the shaving, waxing and plucking that women do to remove body hair.
Personal choice
Some religions encourage or require men to have facial hair, but for most of us it’s a personal choice. Do I like the way I look with a beard?
More important, I believe the best way to answer that age-old question – To shave or not to shave? – is to ask the woman in your life.
She’s the one who has to look at you. And making her happy will help you to avoid a different type of close shave.